Footloose Forays

Footloose Forays is a small travel business begun in 1983 while I was still in graduate school at San Francisco State University. It has grown slowly and organically through the intervening years. I have taken over 10,000 people on various natural history outings ranging from 4-hour night hikes on Mt. Tam to three week adventures in Ecuador. I have enjoyed nearly every minute of this work. The Buddhists refer to the importance of right livelihood and I have been lucky enough to find that. I lead every single trip. Footloose Forays = Michael Ellis. I have no staff except when I enlist my lovely wife to help me. I have a very high repeat business and most trips fill up way in advance. One of the many blessings is the lovely relationships that I have with my fellow naturalists all over the world.

Currently I am concentrating on international travel and only offer a few of my favorite Footloose Forays trips in this country, mostly week-long camping in the mountains or deserts. If any of these trips interest you please feel free to contact me.

In addition to my own natural history forays, I often lead trips for a number of Bay Area organizations. I have a BS in Botany and Masters in Marine Biology. Though I firmly believe that formal schooling is only a small part of the educational process. I have been a regular contributor to the KQED-FM Perspective Series since 1988 and write the Ask the Naturalist column for Bay Nature Magazine.

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WINTER RAINS


January, 2010
Hello: 

I hope everyone had a delightful holiday and that 2010 will be a happy and prosperous New Year for all of us.  I am leaving the country January 30 for northern Tanzania. I plan on summiting Mount Kilimanjaro (19,000+) with nine  friends. I have organized this trip but I am not leading it. I have chosen the western approach up the mountain. This is a longer route and gives us more of a chance to acclimate to the elevation and therefore a better chance of reaching the top. See description that follows below.

After that I will lead my usual Serengeti Safari and be back in the US in early March. I canceled the Madagascar trip next September because of continuing political unrest. It is very sad that the National Parks are being devastated in this impoverished land. I have added another trip to Rwanda and Uganda at this time. Those countries have greatly healed from the instabilities of the past and I want to encourage ecotourists to return and enjoy both the people and the wild places that are protected in both countries. We have a great opportunity to see our close relatives – chimpanzees and gorillas. The mountain gorillas are one of the most charismatic animals left on the planet and there are only 750 of them in the world. Not one is in captivity. The entire population is in a very small mountainous area that includes parts of Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.  This is an area not known for stability, to say the least. The trip description is now posted in the Upcoming trips area of the website.

Here are two links. The first to John Hunters Blog about the trip. 
http://www.travelpod.com/z/jhunter319/3/1254245536 .  password:  gorillaThe second is Matt MacPhee's photos of the trip.http://picasaweb.google.com/matttfm/UgandaRwanda2009?authkey=Gv1sRgCI7Ok9XIgJmhew&feat=email#.

The following trips are now full but I suggest getting on a wait list for them –
 Spring 2010 Footloose Hiking series;   Tanzania and the Serengeti February 2010 (I'm taking registration for 2011 which is almost full); 
 The Mojave Desert in March 2010- both trips are full. 

 Due to a cancellation  there is now one spot  in the Bhutan adventure in April 2010.    The Lakes Basin trip in July has four spots and Mount Lassen in late August has plenty of room.

THE GREAT CLIMB!!!

Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania is   the highest mountain on the continent of Africa -- over 19,000 feet. It  is said that more land can be seen from there than any other place on the planet. It is also the largest freestanding mountain in the world. I have been gazing at this glorious, ancient (but only sleeping)  volcano nearly every February since 1993.  After I climbed Mount Shasta (14,000 +) in 2008 it occurred to me (one of those duh-moments) that you could actually prepare both mentally and physically for the challenge of climbing a big mountain. So a year and a half ago I decided that I should climb Kilimanjaro before I turned 60 (in 2011).

The meaning and origin of the name Kilimanjaro is unknown. It is thought to be a combination of the Swahili word Kilima, meaning “mountain,” and the KiChagga word Njaro, loosely translated as “whiteness,” giving the name White Mountain. The name Kibo in KiChagga means “spotted” and refers to rocks seen on snowfields. The name Uhuru translates as “freedom,” a name given to commemorate Tanzanian independence from Great Britain in 1961. Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa and fourth highest of the Seven Summits, is considered the tallest freestanding mountain in the world, rising 15,100 feet (4,600 meters) from base to summit. Kilimanjaro is composed of three distinct volcanic cones: Kibo 19,340 feet (5,895 meters); Mawenzi 16,896 feet (5,149 meters); and Shira 13,000 feet (3,962 meters). Uhuru Peak is the highest summit on Kibo’s crater rim. Kilimanjaro is a giant stratovolcano that began forming a million years ago when lava spilled from the Rift Valley zone. The mountain was built by successive lava flows. Two of its three peaks—Mawenzi and Shira—are extinct while Kibo, the highest peak is dormant and could erupt again. The last major eruption was 360,000 years ago, while the most recent activity was only 200 years ago. Kilimanjaro has 2.2 square kilometers of glacial ice and is losing it quickly due to global warming. The glaciers have shrunk 82% since 1912 and declined 33% since 1989. It may be ice free within 20 years, dramatically affecting local drinking water and crop irrigation.

To that end I dropped from to 186 pounds to 160 pounds and I got stronger and more aerobic. In fact I think I'm in better shape than I have ever been in my life. Carolyn has said, with some justification, that I have become obsessed with being ready for this climb. I have never been above 15,000 feet and no matter your conditiioning  anyone can suffer acute mountain sickness. That will be the only thing that keeps me from  summiting. I am bringing my collapsible hula-hoop to the top of the mountain and plan on hooping at the peak. I hope it   doesn't break in the sub-zero cold. We shall see. I have organized this trip but I am not leading it; I am a participant like everyone else. I am using Thomson Safaris, the same company that I use for my Serengeti trips. 

Here is my itinerary in case you want to follow along and root for the 10 of us. The summit attempt occurs on February 10 and that happens to be the 14-year anniversary of meeting Carolyn. She was a client on a safari in Tanzania and normally I do not marry the clients but I made an exception in her case! Right after the climb I meet my group for the normal Tanzania Serengeti trip and I will be back in California March 1.

Days 1-2  Depart U.S. / Arrive Arusha Jan. Feb 1
Depart the U.S. for Amsterdam and connect with your flight to Kilimanjaro, arriving in the evening. Upon arrival, you are met by your guide and transferred to your lodge located in the hills just outside of Arusha, set in a stunning location with magnificent views of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Overnight: Ndarakwai Ranch (4200)

Day 3  FEB. 2 West Kilimanjaro
After your climb briefing at the lodge, you will be transferred to the western slopes of Kilimanjaro. This day is a great chance to stretch your legs and recover from the long flights. Camp is set under Acacia trees, near oddly shaped volcanic formations; the perfect setting to introduce you to Kilimanjaro's uniquely breath-taking landscapes.

Overnight: West Kilimanjaro Base Camp (5,500 feet)

Day 4 Feb. 3  Begin Kilimanjaro Trek
After breakfast, you will be transferred to the Londorossi Gate (5,900 feet) to begin your trek. On this first trekking day, you will move through dense rainforest, under a tangled canopy of moss coated vines which is home to black and white colobus monkey, blue monkey and a vibrant array of exotic birds.

You will arrive at your camp in the lower heather belt in time for a hot meal in the comfortable dining tent.

to Forest camp (3-4h, 2.6mi, 9281; 70/90 to 40/50)
    
Day 5  FEB. 4 Kilimanjaro Trek
Once out of the forest, take a steep track into a Savanna of tall grasses, heather, and volcanic rock draped with lichen beards. Ascend through the lush rolling hills below the Shira plateau, finally reaching camp at the edge of the plateau. The view of Kibo from across the plateau is amazing. (5-6h, 4.9mi, 11,499; 50/60 to 30/40) to
Overnight: Shira 1 Camp (12,200 feet)

Days 6-7  Feb. 5-6 Kilimanjaro Trek
Today and tomorrow, you will have plenty of time to explore the Shira plateau. Shira is one of the highest plateaus on earth, averaging 12,500 feet.

Continue hiking across the stark high desert of the Shira Ridge, stopping for lunch as you near 15,000 ft. In the afternoon you will descend into the majestic Great Barranco Valley, amidst the forest of giant groundsels, between sheer cliffs with brilliant hanging glaciers.

(3-4h, 6.6mi, 12,795; 50/60 to 30/40) to
Overnight: Shira 2 Camp (12,600 feet) 
(4-6h, 5.5mi, 15,213; 30/50 to 15/30) to
Overnight: Barranco Camp (Lava Tower) at 12,900 feet)
    
Days 8-9  FEB. 7-8 Kilimanjaro Trek
Day 8 begins with a scramble up the steep "Barranco Wall." We then traverse up and down the slopes of valleys, which have carved their way into the mountain’s southern face. Kibo’s glaciers loom above to your left and the jagged peak of Mawenzi appears just over the southern slope of Kibo. We stop in the Karanga Valley at the end of this day.

As we begin trekking the following day, the trail turns steadily uphill. The temperature will grow colder and the landscape more sparse as we near Barafu Camp. Barafu Camp is set on an exposed ridge and is the staging point from which you will make your way into the arctic summit zone tomorrow morning. Our cooks will help you eat and drink as much as possible before retiring to your tent for rest and sleep.
  (6-7h, 3.2mi, 13,231; 30/50 to 15/30)   to
Overnight: Karanga Camp (13,000 feet)
(3-4h, 2.2 mi, 15,331; 30/50 to 15/30) to
Overnight: Barafu Camp (15,100 feet)

Day 10  FEB. 9 HARDEST DAY!!! Kilimanjaro Trek    
Today you will wake up at dawn and set out for Crater Camp, climbing over 2,500 ft. with magnificent views of Mt. Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro’s second volcanic cone, to the east. In the afternoon, you will arrive at the crater rim to an arctic moonscape. Camp is set in the wide crater atop Kilimanjaro, in soft sand near the indigo streaked Furtwangler Glacier.

It will be a cold night tonight, but the privilege of camping alongside towering, 80-foot glaciers is one that few people can claim to have experienced and one that you will never forget.
(8-10h. 3.4 mi, 18,802; 0/20 to -15/0)
Overnight: Crater Camp (18,750 feet)
    
Day 11  Feb. 10 Summit Day
Arise early and amble your way up the last 600 feet to Kilimanjaro's dramatic summit, Uhuru Peak (19,340 feet).

After enjoying the moment of success and the awe-inspiring views, begin your steep descent.
Using the Mweka Route, arrive at Barafu Camp for lunch, and then continue to your camp nestled in thick heather.
(1-2h, 19,340; 0/20 to -15/0) to Uhuru Peak then big DOWNHILL
(5-7h, 7.6mi, 10,065) to
Overnight: Mweka Camp (11,000 feet)

Days 12-13  Kilimanjaro Trek - Home
Complete your descent through the rainforest to the Mweka Gate, where you will be met and transferred back to your hotel for a much-welcomed shower and some merry convalescence.
Mweka gate (2-3h, 5.5mi, 5364)
Day Room: Arusha Lodge
Flight: Overnight to Amsterdam or whatever comes next. I lead my safari

Michael Ellis


Michael (far left) and friends overlooking the Ngorongoro Crater in February 2009. I have spent every February since 1993 in Tanzania. The adventure in the Serengeti remains one of my favorite Footloose Forays trips.

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